29 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 5 Comments

Amanda

Where do you live?
A:
Born and raised on the Southside of Chicago. I went to undergrad in the LA area. Now, I’m currently in living in DC.

Why did you go natural?
A:
I officially went natural in April 2001 when I was 15 years old. However, I didn’t stop religiously straightening it with heat until 2 years ago (Summer 2008). Because I used to straighten my hair incessantly it suffered a lot of breakage. My hair wasn’t cared for properly. When I would wash my hair, I thought I had a really loose curl pattern, but I later learned this was from all the heat damage from pressing it. Nevertheless, after going to hairstylist after hairstylist, one finally convinced my mother to put me back on the creamy crack.

During this time, I began to really miss my natural hair and the ridiculous proclamations of me having “good hair” in its natural state. Mind you, as previously stated, my hair had been damaged by heat so my curl pattern was looser, which is why my young mind bought into this “good hair” nonsense. I yearned to have that hair back. When I finally let the relaxer grow out, my hair was nothing like I thought it was, which was hard for me to accept, especially while in high school (an institution that breeds insecurity). So, of course, I straightened it.

It wasn’t until summer 2008, that I finally decided to embrace my hair. Maturity, at least for me, settled in. I was tired of fried, limp, lifeless hair. I wanted to get to know my hair and build a better relationship with it on my own terms.

What’s your regimen?
A:
I actually don’t have a strict regimen because I’m a firm believer that like people, hair evolves. However, I am going to try a regimen for a few months and change it up when I feel necessary. I will say that I do color my hair a lot (some would argue that I’m not “natural” because of this), so moisturizing and sealing are key.

I’m really getting into the science of hair so I’m always on YouTube and hair blogs reading, reading and reading.

I typically co-wash daily but now I’m trying to cut back and do it every few days to maybe a week. We’ll see!

Products I use are:

  • Vo5 moisturizing conditioner
  • Suave humectant conditioner
  • glycerin
  • raw shea butter
  • Eco styler gel
  • aloe vera gel
  • oils (jojoba, castor, coconut)

What mistakes have you made with your hair that you’ve learned from?
A:
Straightening it way too often and buying expensive products (not to knock any of the great products out there). I find that my own concoctions best serve my hair.

What’s the best/most effective thing you do for your hair?
A:
Leaving it alone to do its own thing (basically not manipulating it too much). I still haven’t fully learned this lesson but I notice when I put it into practice, it makes a WORLD of a difference.

Is there a blog/webpage where we can find you?
A:
www.honeyfaced.blogspot.com

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29 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 12 Comments

Link of the day: Have you ever felt like this?

I saw this postcard on Postsecret.com on Sunday and thought it was kind of funny and cute, lol.

Lol… I’ve felt like this before, but mostly when it comes to skincare. I finally caved and bought Proactiv again (I know, I know) because natural remedies just weren’t working. When it comes to hair, I actually feel the opposite. Natural stuff works waaay better for me than manufactured products.

What about you?

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28 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 18 Comments

Tomiko Fraser updo by Felicia Leatherwood

Felicia Leatherwood is an LA-based stylist who has worked with Jill Scott, Sanaa Lathan, and others. She will be on BGLH from time-to-time giving step-by-step for her work. This lovely updo was done on model Tomiko Fraser, one of the faces of the Maybelline cosmetics line.

You will need; 3-4 hair pins, 4-5 bobby pins, Temple Balm by Organic Roots, IC Hair Polisher Mist, Edge Grooming Brush (hair accessories optional)


Step 1: Start at the nap or back area of head. Start by wrapping a small section of the doubl strand twist upward toward the crown of the head, like a French Roll.


Step 2: Half way up the head, right around where the ears point, you want to secure the rolled portion with a hair & bobby pin. Use one hair pin first, followed by a bobby pin (difference between hair pin and bobby pin — a hair pin is open and bobby pins are closed).


Step 3: After securing the hair that is at the half way point of the head, continue to french roll the rest of the hair and secure with a hair pin and bobby pin. Depending on how thick your hair is, you may have to use more than one.


Step 4: As you reach the front of the head you will start to fold the front section, by rolling the hair around the front of forehead, tuck and securing with pins. Be sure not to pull hair too tight around hair line because you don’t want it to break-off.


Step 5: Finish the Up-do style by placing a small amount of Temple Balm around the hairline to strengthen the edges. Use the Edge Grooming brush to brush down loose hairs and distribute the Temple Balm on the hairline. Finally, spray IC Hair Polisher Mist for shine and sun-protection. You can add a flower or head-band, hair jewelry, etc. to accentuate the style.


This updo will showcase your best facial features and add class to your wardrobe. Enjoy!

Lovely! You can find Felicia online at the following spots:

Loving Your Hair with Natural Care (Facebook)
www.lovingyourhairwithnaturalcare.com
www.twitter.com/lovingyourhair
Email: lovingyourhaircare@gmail.com

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28 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 38 Comments

Report shows relaxer sales have been in decline since 2007

I think I read this statistic somewhere before, but it popped up again in a July 23 story by the Atlanta Journal Constitution. The piece is about the upcoming Bronner Brothers hair show which, according to author Nedra Rhone, is focusing on styles that are less stressful on the hair. (Thanks reader Uneshia for sending the link!)

As Atlanta gears up for the mid-summer Bronner Brothers hair show, which takes place August 7-10, black hair is once again in the spotlight, highlighting a growing cadre of women, who in an effort to avoid a Naomi Campbell-type disaster, have increasingly turned to less stressful hair styles.


Such trends are altering the $165 million mass market black haircare industry, and not always for the better. The two largest black haircare companies, L’Oreal USA and Alberto Culver Company, which account for more than one-third of the market, have both experienced sales declines in recent years, according to a 2009 study from Mintel, an international market research firm.


And while relaxers have been at the heart of the black haircare industry, 2007 saw the beginning of a decline in sales of relaxer kits at mass market stores, which is projected to continue during the next four years.

Click HERE for the full article.

Interesting! What are your thoughts?

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27 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 35 Comments

Sherica


Where do you live?
S:
I’m originally from Broward County, Florida but I now live in Sarasota County. I am currently a student enrolled at Edison State College where I’ll be graduating with an Associates in General Education at the end of the year. I will then attend the University of South Florida for my Bachelors in Biology, starting in Spring 2011.

Why did you go natural?
S:
Well I’ve actually been natural for all 22 years of my life. I’ve just recently become more knowledgeable on how to embrace, understand, and nourish my kinky mane. My mom decided not to use chemicals in our hair when we were kids because she didn’t want to alter our hair while we were young, and have us grow up to regret it later on. I love my mommy!

I’ve always had to deal with men and women (mainly women) ignorant as to why a black woman would leave her hair in its natural state and actually be proud. That sometimes leads people to come out and say rude things to me about my hair; Why dont you get a perm? You should press your hair more often? I could never keep my hair nappy like that! Ugh whatever, different strokes for different folks.

When I was child I used whatever was put it in my hair; from Johnson and Johnson’s ultra sheen blue hairdress to Doo Gro (basically anything that was action packed with petroleum, ugh). But earlier this year, my big sister started researching websites that supported natural hair and its maintenance and it just completely inspired her to be open and more excepting about her own natural state. Of course, with us being so close she started to share her newfound interest in natural hair with me and that’s where my infatuation came in, lol. I take much better care of my hair now than I ever had in the past, and as a result my hair is healthier, stronger and more manageable.

What’s your regimen?
S:
I wash my hair once every 2 weeks and keep it moisturized by spirtzing in water then adding a mixture of cantu shea butter, castor oil, and glycerin, (my creamy crack). While paying the most attention to my ends, this creamy mixture keeps my hair nice and soft when I wear my fro throughout the day in this dry and humid Florida weather. I try to deep condition whenever I wash my hair and I trim my ends every 3 months.

My products are

  • Dr. Bonners castille soap for clarifying
  • Apple Cider Vinegar rinse after shampooing (which removes all the product build up used earlier on in the week)
  • A mix of Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship conditioner, extra virgin olive oil, honey, and glycerin for my deep conditioning treatment. (I put 2 shower caps on my head plus a beanie and carry on with the rest of the day while the ingredients soak through my hair for about 4 hours. I’d rather do this than add heat).
  • Palmers olive oil formula hairdress for oiling my scalp

What mistakes have you made with your hair that you’ve learned from?
S:
Too much combing, styling and messing with the hair constantly is no good. The less manipulation the better. Also neeeeever leave Jam, gel, or bees wax in your hair for over a day. It will break your hair off and leave you with Naomi Campbell edges in a minute! So wash it out by the end of the day just to be on the safe side.

What’s the best/most effective thing you do for your hair?
S:
Keeping it moisturized. Elasticity is the #1 way to longer and stronger hair.

Is there a blog/webpage where we can find you?
S:
http://shatterproofglassdolls.wordpress.com

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27 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 13 Comments

Guest post: Why a natural haired heroine is important

Debbie Rigaud is author of the young adult book Perfect Shot (pictured above), the first of Simon & Schuster Pulse Romantic Comedies series to feature an African-American (and natural haired!) protagonist. She reminisces on her hair story, and how it shaped her desire to feature a natural heroine.

Author Debbie Rigaud

Growing up, I was shaped by what other people said about me. My most talked-about characteristics were, of course, the most physically obvious ones—my lanky, skinny frame and my big hair. So, for the first ten years of my life, I thought I had long hair. I’d heard enough negative comments about my size to lead me to assume I wasn’t great-looking, but it sounded like I had the long hair thing in the bag.

Sure, I had reference for what long hair really looked like. Thanks to TV, I was aware of the “Jan Brady”s in the world. And then there was the Irish-American woman my uncle lived with (my cousins and I would play with her thigh-length hair like we were maypole dancing). But once I heard other people’s “long hair” remarks about me, I obediently drank the Kool-Aid.

For years I existed comfortably with this belief, until I switched elementary schools from an all-Black to an all-Latino/Italian/Portuguese one. There I was on the first day of fifth grade, with my freshly-pressed, shoulder-blade-length hair tightly pulled back into a ponytail. I had carefully read the school handbook, which sternly ordered all girls with long hair to wear ponytails—or else. Naturally, I complied. As a new student, I did not want to start off on the wrong foot.

I’ll never forget the cheeky girl with the XXLong pony tail pointing at me and snickering as my new classmates and I were led to our homeroom in an orderly fashion. It was then that it struck me that the school handbook wasn’t referring to me at all. The “long hair” bubble I was living in finally burst and I floated out of it. Sure, I was a bit shocked, but I was also free to wear my hair in any style I chose.

As I neared puberty, the new conversation was that straight hair made me look pretty. When my grandmother visited from DC, she’d bring along her straightening combs and my sisters and I all took turns in the “hot seat.” Nevermind that as a tween, I cartwheeled rather than walked, thus sweating out my hair faster than Grandma’s Greyhound bus mascot can run. I still cherished those few days when my hair was straight. It was my all-access pass to Pretty.

By high school, I’d learned how to stretch out my press and curl for weeks, until either my grandma visited or my aunt took pity on me and ran a hot comb through. Back then, most salons didn’t want to spend the time required to straighten a thick head of hair like mine, so I didn’t go to them. My private decision to forego the bone straight relaxed look became fodder for more communal discussion. “Somebody needs a touch-up bad,” I’d hear girls cracking as I’d walk by with my blow-out in sad shape. People wondered why I didn’t just perm my hair. It was the easy choice. And as with every other social activity in high school, everybody else was doing it. Why wasn’t I?

I debated the pros and cons for over a year. At 19, I decided a perm would give me more ownership over my hair. No longer would I have to wait around for a relative to straighten it for me. I still remember sitting in my hairdresser’s seat, listening to her squeal on about “all this virgin hair!” She couldn’t believe her luck and couldn’t want to break me in.

For me, the biggest “wow” factor about the perm was how water flattened my hair. Amazing.

But I gave it about two more touch-ups, and then I abandoned the relaxer altogether. My hair just felt too synthetic. I didn’t like it. I kept my hair braided and kept clipping at the ends. By the time I was a sophomore in college, I’d settled comfortably in the two cornrows hairstyle, and later, my trademark twists.

Of course, this decision generated chatter as well. To some, I was squandering my beauty. And to my mother in particular, I was offending my family, since I come from a line of hair straightening professionals. This profession fed, clothed and educated the generation ahead of me and now I was too good to wear my hair straight? To appease her, I’d straighten my hair from time to time.

Once I was approached by a younger Black girl who wanted to know where I was from. “East Orange,” I told her. She disagreed, and said that with my “long hair,” I must be from somewhere else. I didn’t want to affirm her assumption, but she gave me that I-knew-it look when she uncovered that my parents are from Haiti. I had come face-to-face with yet another girl who bought into that same ole story as I once had — that long or straight hair equaled beauty and that “regular”/non-mixed black girls were effectively locked out from achieving society’s highest standards of beauty.

I thought about that girl years later when I came across reader mail while working at Seventeen magazine. A 17-year-old Black girl wrote in looking for advice on how to tell her mother she wanted to get a perm. She wrote that she felt awkward being the only girl without a relaxer because people were talking about her. I responded to her letter, encouraging her to be certain that any decision she made be for herself and not for others. We began a correspondence, freely discussing hair politics and the social pressures surrounding it. In the end, she got the green light from her mom and excitedly relaxed her hair. That became, I’m sure, the start of but one interesting chapter in that girl’s hair story.

There’s something deeply affirming about rocking the natural look. I see the power it has to spread awareness, encouragement and inspiration and I kept this in mind as I dreamed up a fictional Black girl named London Abrams. London is the main character in my young adult book PERFECT SHOT—the first book in Simon & Schuster’s Simon Pulse Romantic Comedies series to feature a Black protagonist. She’s a sporty girl with a full head of kinky curls that she rocks as if it isn’t any issue at all. When London unwittingly enters a modeling contest, she never feels the need to straighten her hair to fit in or enhance her beauty. Hopefully girls of all hair textures and hairstyles accept London as one representation of them.

It’s funny. I’ve never worked in a corporate environment. That grammar school handbook was my closest brush with hairstyle restrictions. I have always been free to wear my ‘do any way I choose. Yet my hairstyle choices have struck a lot of nerves, sparked plenty of debates, and caused lots of heads to turn in admiration, shake in disgust and nod in acknowledgment. But I learned something key along my personal hair journey. Yes, everyone will share their opinion about my choice of coif, but people’s comments say way more about them—their fears, beliefs (imagined or real), desires—than they ever will about me.

And I think young black girls everywhere need to know that.

For more information about Perfect Shot, check out Debbie’s website HERE and her blog HERE.

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26 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 26 Comments

Link of the day: Janelle Monae has a ‘hair malfunction’… and it looks awesome!

Janelle Monae tweeted a link to SFWeekly.com, which featured a rare photo of her hair falling out of place during a performance. Technically it was an “accident”, but I think it’s fabulous! Her hair is obviously very healthy and beautiful! I would LOVE to have her on the blog… haven’t managed to pull it off yet though, lol.

Here are the photos…

…and here is the link to the article.

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26 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 50 Comments

Roll call: Protective styles or wash and go? How do you retain length?

Protective styling is probably the most popular way for naturals to retain length. By twisting or bunning the hair and leaving it alone for a few days, it isn’t subject to manipulation (which can lead to breakage), and the ends are less likely to knot and tangle.

But many naturals are turning to wet/shrinkage styling as a means to retain length. For many naturals it’s emotional, they don’t like the idea of having to hide the hair for several days at a time. Others feel that — for their hair — protective styling actually causes more breakage than wash and go’s do.

What is your approach? And why does it work for you? Have you made the transition from protect styling to wash and go styling? Why?

Please include your hair type in your response.

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26 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 18 Comments

Link of the day: Natural hair in the Radio City Rockettes

***Update: 7:10 p.m. So sad news, I got an email from Avi Gerver — who loved the link love BGLH gave him — but informed me that the Rockettes would like these photos to be taken down. Unfortunately he had to take them down from his site too. But, good news, I found out who the Rockette is, and will try to get her on as a style icon.***

The Radio City Rockettes are one of America’s oldest entertainment traditions. For those unfamiliar, here’s an excerpt from Wikipedia;

The Rockettes are a well-known precision dance company performing out of the Radio City Music Hall in Manhattan, New York City. During the Christmas season, the Rockettes have performed five shows a day, seven days a week, for 77 years. Perhaps their best-known routine is an eye-high leg kick in perfect unison in a chorus line, which they include at the end of every performance.


The Radio City Christmas Spectacular is performed annually at Radio City Music Hall and in numerous other American and Canadian cities by a touring company of Rockettes. It is one of the most-watched live shows in the United States, with over 2 million viewers per year. The Rockettes perform annually at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade (since 1957) and the America’s Thanksgiving Parade in Detroit. The NBC Rockefeller Center Tree-Lighting Ceremony also traditionally includes a performance by the dance troupe.

One of the Rockettes this year is a natural! These photos were taken by Avi Gerver of Avi Gerver Photography.

Thanks Wanett for sending in this link! And if any of you know who this young lady is, please email me at blackgirllonghair@gmail.com

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23 July 2010 ~ Posted By Black Girl With Long Hair ~ 28 Comments

Mazeratie breaks down detangling, knots & protective styling…


A few days ago Mazeratie (pictured above) was featured as a hair icon. A curious reader left a series of pointed questions, requesting further regimen details. Mazeratie responded with this email;

Reader: Does she not suffer from dryness esp. in summer when wearing her kinky/curly fro?
Mazeratie:
I was actually pretty lucky to find a product combination that literally keeps my hair soft and moisturized (for days sometimes) – even in dry, hot AZ.

Early on in my journey I started experimenting with mixing and I discovered glycerin. The only caveat was that because it was a humectant, it could actually dry out hair in non-humid climates b/c it would absorb and hold moisture from wherever it could be found. As I was reading, I saw that the “trick” to glycerin was to mix it with equal parts water so that it would be fully “saturated” and not need to absorb water from the hair strand. So I started using a spritz made of Aloe Vera Gel/Juice, Rosewater, and Vegetable Glycerin.

The Aloe Vera is a light protein that adds shine and curl definition, and the glycerin/rosewater work together to soften and moisturize. This is the magic bullet for me. Some similar consumer products are S-curl or Stay Soft Fro. In addition I’ve made castor oil an integral part of my routine as a sealant. It is so thick and rich that I only need to use it once a week or so while styling and it will keep working for me the entire time. If it is too thick for you, consider diluting it with thinner oil like coconut, olive or jojoba.

R: Does she not get split ends or single strand knots from the puffs and fros?
M:
Because my hair is moisturized and sealed my hair truly doesn’t tangle that badly and the castor oil helps to protect my ends from wear and tear. It also stays soft and pliable so I don’t see breakage from brittleness. I actually have very few single strand knots, and I don’t get tons of splits either. I think the counterbalance to me wearing my hair out constantly is the fact that I don’t manipulate it, so I don’t have a ton of mechanical damage from styling. I almost never use heat or high tension styles either. But everyone’s hair is different, and this routine may not work for you.

R: Does detangling after wearing these out styles not take forever?
M:
Depends on your definition of forever. These pictures are all wash and go styles. Twists or braid outs may take a little longer to detangle because the hair is so clumped together. When I detangle my hair is in 4-6 sections. Sometimes I dampen with water or use Amla Oil to soften before detangling. I usually do it in the shower after deep conditioning.

After I rinse the deep conditioner, I apply a lighter co-wash conditioner and go to work. If I’m just finger combing it’ll be 15-20 minutes. With a wide-tooth comb it takes 20-30 minutes probably. Before straightening I detangle REALLY well. But I start with fingers, and then go over with a wide tooth comb, then a detangling comb and FINALLY a Denman, so the detangling is very gradual.

R: How did she grow her hair so long? Was it protective styling?
M:
When I was transitioning I wore protective styles 24/7. Once I became fully natural I pretty much stopped. I definitely believe that protective styling can help you retain length and reach your goals that much faster. I would recommend it, especially if you’ve reached a stalling point in your growth. However, my hair is SO thick that most protective styles seem like more work than they’re worth, although I might try braids or twists again for Fall.

I tried wearing twists for a while, but they took time to do and I missed my hair. Also, I felt like I had to put my hair through a lot of combing etc to put them in. So far it’s too thick to bun, but I haven’t tried wet bunning. My hair has been out 95% of the time since my big chop and it looks like I’ve retained length pretty well. I will keep an eye on it to see if it continues.

What are your thoughts on Mazeratie’s regimen breakdown? And how do you approach detangling, breakage and protective styling?

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