natural girl’s nemesis: heat damage!
Question for J from Cee:
Hey BGLH. I am an avid reader of your blog, because it helps me in my quest for healthy hair. But there’s something that’s been bothering me.
See, when I first became natural, I think my hair was much more healthier then. But now, the front of my hair is short and type damaged, and my hair is uneven. The right side is long and thinner then the left side, which is shorter and thicker, and seems to be healthier looking. The back of my hair used to be thick, but now its a bit thin, and there’s this section in the front that is always straight. It doesn’t curl up or anything, even when I use such products like Curlz, or Miss Jessie’s, I think due to the fact that I used to flat iron that part almost every day to make bangs. And I think a part of the section that is straight has always been like that, not really curly or wavy as the rest of my hair. I do know how to style my hair. I cornrow it, and the next day I release the cornrows and they come out nice. My hair is soft and naturally wavy, but I think its damaged. I don’t know what to do with it.
The good thing is that ever since I read your blog and learned about moisturizing and co-washing and deep conditioning, I’ve been doing just that, and my has grown and is less dry. Its easier to manage. So what can i do to solve my problem?
j’s response:
Hey Cee,
First off, you have beautiful hair (and skin)! It appears to me that you’ve suffered some heat damage. Heat damage is one of those things that once the damage is done, there’s not much you can do about it. Excessive heat breaks the natural chemical bonds in the hair structure and damages the cuticle. Over time the cuticle can crack or wear away, leaving the inner layers exposed. This results in dryness and moisture loss. This is why heat damage is not something that can be undone. I would suggest a series of protein treatments to help repair some of the damage that probably resulted due to the heat. In cases of heat damage, I have seen protein treatments help. Since hair is composed primarily of protein, protein treatments bond to the hair to keep the damage at bay, as opposed to it getting worse. They help to rebuild the hair structure using the protein to help “fill in the gaps” in the hair strands, so to speak. For some individuals, protein treatments are also helpful with shedding. A popular protein treatment to try is Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment for Damaged Hair. It uses animal protein but for the animal friendly, a vegetable based protein is Jheri Redding 100% Natural Protein Conditioner Treatment. In addition, alternate with moisturizing deep treatments to maintain a moisture balance (too much protein can make the hair brittle).
Honestly, from your pics, I really don’t see much damage. In the twist out picture, it looks like the bang area has been affected which is to be expected from your former daily flat ironing ritual. Do periodic trims to gradually remove the damaged ends. Most importantly, avoid heat! If you do use heat again, please limit heat to once in a while, not every week. Lower the setting on your flat iron and use a good heat protectant. Although a rarity, I have seen some naturals’ hair suffer from temporary reversion issues, meaning that their hair “napps back” up over time. This helps satisfy the visual aesthetic, but it doesn’t necessarily mean that damage has not occurred.
Additional question from Cee: “Along with the helpful tips you gave me, do you think that maybe if I put braids in and when removing the braids I trim the damaged ends off, that my hair can go back to what it used to be?”
j’s response:
The braids will assist in keeping your hair protected due to it being a protective style. You won’t be manipulating your strands unnecessarily. This will give your hair a well-earned break 
Be careful not to put in your braids too tight to prevent damage to the hair follicles. This is for extension braids or even the cornrows that you do for your braidouts. This could be what’s responsible for the thinning in the back of your hair. Lastly, baby your hair! Be gentle with it at all times, especially when removing the braids. Your hair seems to be fine textured so you want to avoid tangles at all costs. Thanks for your question. This is an important topic for naturals! Good Luck Cee!
~j~
This was really informative. I’m actually experiencing the same issue with one section of my hair.
This reaaly helps. Thanks J. Thanks for posting this L.
Thanks J for the info I"m hopping on that 100 percent natural protein conditioner you mentioned after I finish my mane N tail.
I actually have never applied heat to my hair but I know I have damage *ex-colorer LOL*. >_> Its my shedding, every time I comb my hair *once a month now* it just comes out and I feel like sometimes its excessive and my hair feels like its thinner in some areas. Its possible from my trip to the salon a few months back , they pretty much ripped all of my hair out! Would I be better off doing a small chop or just babying my hair and hope within two years it fills back in.
I also want to henna my hair more now but I tend to use protein conditioners, should I use henna and protein at the same time?
(is this the right place to ask this question?)
Hi there!
You know a lot about hair!! I need to start checking out your posts because a lot of sistas I notice online at hair blogs mention issues with hair thinning in the front and even after they stop wearing styles that put tension on the front hairline, it doesn’t come back.
this was real helpful!
now can u do a segment on maintaining the moisture in the ends of hair? lol (seriously)
OMG I swear I’m blushing that I was featured in your blog. Oh gee! But once again, thanks for the help! I am seriously much more aware and am going to follow this treatment. Thank you!
This is great advice. I use the Aphogee protein tx every 6 weeks and it brings breakage to a halt (at least for me it does). I also incoporate Aubrey Organics GPB (not on the same days)and of course always balance it out with a deep moisturizing conditioner. Now I want to look into the Jheri Redding 100% Natural Protein Conditioner tx : )
@ everyone:
you’re welcome!
@ da jadedpoet
i actually use henna and protein. for me it works. everyone’s hair is different. for some that may be too much. they both “fill in the gaps” if hair has been damaged. i do a henna treatment every other month. besides the conditioning and strengthening benefits, it keeps my color bright. i use protein treatments as needed. i don’t have a set regimen with that. i just get a feel of what my hair needs. i also alternate my conditioners which have protein versus those that are deep conditioning. my hair likes both. some people think naturals don’t need protein but depending on your hair type and level of “abuse”, it may be required.
@ stassi x:
i actually spent the month of march on a moisturizing series. you really need to check that out! check out the tabs: moisturizing masterbook: http://blackgirllonghair.blogspot.com/2009/02/moisturizing-masterbook-courtesy-of-j_11.html, “march moisturizing madness”, “moisturizing products and regimen” and the “tough love haircare series”.
@ cee frizzle:
i actually suffered heat damage at the hands of a stylist years ago (on 2 separate occasions). i actually cut out the damage myself! that’s why i only trust myself to straighten my hair.
no prob! it was a great question
@ sheila
yeah protein works for me. i’ve seen great results with others also. i love the gpb!! i hope you like the jheri redding.
I love the pretty puff! I'll be rocking that this summer!
Another protein that may help is karotin. It is kind of hard to find, it’s not the same as carrot oil treatments. The hair shaft is made of karotin so it will help rebuild it.