If you want more product talk, check out this ongoing thread of BGLHers Top 5 products. While you’re at it, don’t forget to check out J’s interview about her former life as a model in NYC.

***

Shari

MY TEXTURE:

*sigh* my texture. Well, I have about 3-4 of them. All with different personalities. In the front, I have wavy hair. Which often leads people to ask me if I have Indian in my family (I’m not joking). At my temples near my ears, I have tightly coiled, kinky hair with no discernible curl pattern to the naked eye. And at the nape of my neck, I have a small section of springy curls. And all of my hair is coarse except for the curly part in the back. Coarse wavy hair is an interesting texture that doesn’t seem to respond to a whole lot of things. So I often spend money on products that don’t work for me. *cues sad violin music*

My hair is strong, rebellious and moody. I used to think that was a bad thing until I realized that you can have nuclear warfare on my head and my hair will still be standing.

“MY FAVES”:

Coconut oil: I loves my coconut oil. It moisturizes my scalp situation and preserves my sexy on a daily basis. I only discovered this magical not quite liquid/not quite solid back in the summer and it really does the trick. And pre-treating with it is the only thing that can save me from the next item on the list…

Water*: I am the self-proclaimed wash and go queen. I used to wash my hair EVERY DAY. It’s mystifying that my hair didn’t jump off my head in revolt. But I digress. The real reason water is on my list is because, my other fave products would be crap without it. And my hair just doesn’t look right without at least a little spritz of it. *Disclaimer – I’m referring to purified water. I bought one of those shower filters and it has been a great investment. My hair seems happier since I bought it. I live in Chicago and the water here is not quite right (my tap water smells like feet).

Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade: First of all, this stuff smells like butterscotch and caramel apples. I sometimes want to eat it but then I have to remind myself it’s not food. But why I really love burnt sugar pomade is because it makes my slick-backed hair look shiny and luxurious and adds a little extra luster to my knots and twists.

Shampoo: I know a lot of my fellow natural ladies swear by co-washing, but my scalp says oh. hell. no. to that. I went granola (i.e. all natural products) a few months back and I gave away all of my shampoo. I tried co-washing, baking soda, no-poo, the whole nine. It all equaled failure (I won’t lie, Oyin’s Grand Poo Bar worked aight, but I don’t do well with bars). My scalp just doesn’t get clean without it.

Suave aloe & waterlilly conditioner: God bless the folks at Suave for making a family size bottle of conditioner with no protein and impeccable detangling qualities all for $2.12. I love ya’ll, really. My conditioner spending used to be out of control, but no more. I still use Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose to co-wash and cleanse my scalp. But I go through gallons of conditioner, so this is my old faithful.

So, there you have it folks. My top 5 products. I found my list surprising to even myself because I’m the biggest product junkie ever. Kinda crazy all the cheap items made the list.

Jenteel

MY TEXTURE:

I have about 3 different textures on my head.  Because of this, I find it easy to relate to naturals of many textures.   The front and back of my hair are looser textured – wavy.  This part of my hair is a breeze to detangle, but is hard to hold a style as twists and braids loosen quickly.  The middle of my hair is curly to coily textured.  This is the part of my hair that holds a style the best.  Unlike most naturals, my crown area is more coarse, but because it is a very small section it blends in easily with the waves.   I find more knots here and I have to pay special attention to moisturizing it more often.  This is the part of my hair that reverts the quickest.  All in all, my hair can be soft and pliable or tough and relentless.  It’s super thick and “big” which causes it to be the center of attention.  It is quite resilient and because of this I say it matches my personality!

MY STORY:

I am 10+ years in this natural game! I celebrated my nappiversary in May.  In 1998, I big chopped after 10-11 months of transitioning with braids (cornrows and twists done by me) and professional extensions.  Then in 1999, I went natural again by doing a “little” chop from a short relaxed cut that I sported for only 3 months.  I wore my hair short and natural for quite a while before I decided to grow it long.

“MY FAVES”: (in deliberate order)

Castor Oil: This is honestly one of my “stranded on a deserted island” picks. I l-o-v-e castor oil, particularly the pure “black” castor oil!  I was raised on castor oil.  We Haitians call it l’huile palma cristi (palm of christ) or maskreti.  When my aunt goes to Haiti, she brings me back the good stuff.  My Caribbean naturals, can relate to this   When I was a little girl my mom would use it mixed with herbs as a hair treatment.  Castor oil penetrates my strands, leaves my hair soft and shiny without feeling greasy.  I drench my ends with it.  Besides hair, castor oil has about a dozen uses.   Another way I use it is on sore muscles or injuries.  When you massage it into your skin it heats up and away goes the pain!

Trader Joe’s Nourish Spa Conditioner: Yes it’s a conditioner but it acts like a cleanser.  It even foams up a bit.  TJ’s cleanses gently, leaving my hair moist and detangling afterward is simple.  If I have product buildup, I just add a tiny bit of baking soda to a heaping handful of conditioner.  I love Trader Joe’s so one day a few years back,  I took a chance on the shampoo and conditioner.  My hair really takes to natural and organic ingredients.  When I started co-washing, this product did the trick.

Floral Waters: These are the hydrosols of flowers.  The best known is probably rosewater.   My favorites to use are chamomile or sandalwood.  I discovered them online when I was searching for natural ingredients to add to my spritz.  Camomile soothes irritated skin and is calming.   Sandalwood helps hydrate dry, itchy skin and serves as an antiseptic.  They both have bactericidal and anti-inflammatory properties.  They smell incredible,  soothe my scalp and even serve as my aromatherapy (take me away… ).

Gel: I have a confession – I love gel.  Yup, I’m not all juices and berries!   I know many naturals avoid gel.  I never advise on gel because some can be too drying, but anything with this viscous type of consistency gets me thru!  There are natural gels out there with great ingredients too.  One healthy gel in particular is African Formula Natural & Organic Styling Gel.   A fotki member with gorgeous curls named Spiral suggested it to me.  Because of my hair’s density, gel and only gel can smooth away the fly-aways and make my myriad of textures operate as one unit.   When the humidity gets crazy in the summer, I can rest assured with a wave-popping gel-ed back bun.    Depending on the weather or my pleasure, I may use the purest of the pure aloe vera gel to the “bad for you, but it hurts so good” black gel    All in moderation, baby!

Jheri Redding Natural Protein Conditioner: This find I discovered  in passing on a forum or on someone’s fotki.   I was very attracted to the idea of a protein treatment that didn’t use animal protein.  This one uses hydrolyzed vegetable protein and apple cider vinegar (another ingredient my hair loves).  After I use this my hair feels strong and soft!  Can’t beat that!

So there you have it.  The things that make my hair sing, dance and thrive!

~j~

***
Want more product talk? Check out the BGLH forum HERE.

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I adore aloe as a moisturizer, holding gel, curl-definer, shine spray, softener and scalp soother. It works well in a variety of forms and in this case: a spray.

I love this brand for its ingredients:
Real Aloe Vera (organically grown/certified), PURIFIED water, Citric Acid, Sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate.

The purified water is icing on the cake. The fact that pure aloe vera is the first ingredient is what makes me smile. The sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate are FOOD GRADE preservatives, by the way.

I use through out the day, all day, every day, with no fear of build up or flakes. It is WATERY, by the way. It’s a great spritz base for your own concoctions (be sure to preserve them properly!). It works well “on the fly” (via my purse) or for my Cap n’ Go Method. It has the slightest scent, which fades immediately and smells of (what else?) aloe! ^_^

This can also aid in laying down edges, taming fly-aways, keeping ends moist (great for baggy-ers!) and smoothing buns into place (I haven’t forgotten you, bunning beauties!). This won’t give you a texture you don’t have and doesn’t not provide strong curl definition. It aids in definition by helping your hair fight frizz, by hydrating it and adding a bit of strength, WHATEVER your texture. Protein sensitive ladies: Be wary of protein-over load with this, if used daily!

The pump delivers a fantastic amount with ease, with I adore. The packaging is boring, yes…but it gets the point across. I’d prefer some curves, a solid color, sleeker font and a simple graphic…ah, well.

Personally, I think I will switch to aloe gels for stronger hold but this will forever be my cheap, effective “curl reviver”. It is also great for sun burn, a facial spray, facial moisturizer, and a body moisture spray!
—
Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/

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Hey guys, I (Leila) submitted this question to J out of my own curiosity:

“So, I’ve been thinking about this for a while:
A lot of things that are good for hair: aloe vera gel, castor oil, bentonite clay, chamomile, have antifungal, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Why is that? I mean, how do those properties benefit the hair?”

J’s response:
The properties of these herbs are primarily focused for use to promote a healthy scalp. A healthy scalp leads to healthy hair. If your scalp is suffering, this cannot translate to healthy hair. I’m sure you’ve heard of skin/scalp issues like dandruff and eczema leading to hair loss. As the hair pushes through the follicle, it gets entangled in the excess sebum or the parasitic nature of a fungus (if that is the root of the dandruff). You can imagine that realized length retention may even be slowed down by this. The natural oils cannot properly travel down the hair shaft if they are blocked by excess sebum or fungi.

The bentonite clay adsorbs toxins attracting it to its surface, then absorbs them to sweep them away. The removal of these toxins allows your scalp to “breathe” better (it does the same thing in the body). Castor oil is an anti-toxin which is why it works well on the bowels; it increases muscle contractions along the intestinal wall. But because it is habit forming, you should not use it often. Sometimes people are constipated for a health reason. Using laxatives just masks the problem. Stick to using it in the hair where it can seal in moisture! Besides the properties that you already mentioned, aloe vera and chamomile have hydrating properties that can benefit the hair itself. We could all use a little hydration! besides who wouldn’t want a calm, soothed scalp!

~j~

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Hi there
I was wondering if you help with this dilemma or throw it out to all the knowledgeable ladies who read your site. I am recently natural and experimenting with styles. I recently attempted a twist-out and the results were great BUT I realised I had no idea how to protect the style before going to bed. I carefully tied a satin scarf over it but it did not preserve the style overnight. I also tried using a satin bonnet – not helpful either. It seems like extra work to have to re-twist – that means twisting every night just to get the same results! Not good at all. Especially as I have learned through trial and error that smaller twists make firmer, cuter twistout for my hair type – it takes me over an hour to twist, I really do not think it is practicable to have to do this every night also it seems like way too much manipulation for our delicate strands right? Surely there must be a fool-proof method of preserving a twistout/bantu knotout, etc at night? Please help.
Thank you in advance and also for your highly informative site! I really enjoy visiting it.
Holly

j’s response:
hey there holly!

the difference is in the product…
in general, i’ve noticed that twist outs last longer on kinkier hair types. this hair type loves hair butters like shea. if you have a looser hair type or fine hair, you may want to try some natural gels for more hold or use minimal products. some options include using a homemade daily spritz, setting lotion or a light oil like coconut. heavier products weigh down fine hair and the resulting twist out often looks stringy or too “spacey”. i generally use my water-based moisturizer but sometimes for more hold, i use aloe vera gel or any gel without glycerin as it attracts moisture to the hair. my twist outs/braid outs don’t make it through hot and humid temperatures. and when humidity hits, my hair blows up! glycerin-based products definitely encourage the look! throughout the course of the day, it shrinks up to my shoulders! for this reason, i do more “out” styles in the spring and fall. as far as the frequency of your sets, i do “cheat” sets. i just re-twist or re-braid the bottom of the hair or “spot” twist/braid sloppy areas. this way i’m not braiding/twisting everything every night. that’s way too much time and manipulation for me!

size matters!
as you mentioned, the size of the braids or twists do matter! in contrast to your experiences, bigger sections work better for me. smaller sections come out too “skinny” looking in an -out style. however, smaller sections on any hair type do result in longer lasting -out styles (despite how it looks). another idea is to do what i do. i no longer do individual twists throughout my whole head because it takes way too much time! for a twist out, i do what i call “2-strand flat twists”. it’s like a cornrow but instead of 3 pieces, you use 2. i make anywhere from 6-10 going down my head in whatever direction i want the resulting -out style to be in. it takes less time and my twist outs actually come out better than with individual twists (result in above photo).

my hair looks great! how do i keep it this way?!
as far as preserving it, it might help to loosely pin the twist out up at night. longer hair can be put in a loose pony or one loose braid. i know you said it didn’t work for you holly, but in terms of preserving a style a satin bonnet is your best option. the satin scarf will just flatten the style. the key is to get a bonnet that is very large. if it is too snug, it will flatten your hair just like the scarf. sometimes i’ll even sleep with my hair free as i sleep on a satin pillowcase. it’s usually fine the next day. thanks for the BGLH love and for your question

as you suggested holly, i will open it up to the BGLH readers!
chime in ladies! what are your tips for holly?
~j~

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BGLH: What products do you use to moisturize? Why?
Kcurly: I prefer either thick creamy moisturizers or if my hair is in a protective style such as twists or braids, I use a spritz-like moisturizer.

My favorite creamy moisturizer is unrefined shea butter because it is all natural, vitamin-rich, and full of good fats. My hair and scalp both drink it up. Though it can be overwhelming if too much is used.

For liquid moisturizers, I love Oyin Handmade Frank or Greg Juice. Also made from natural ingredients, these make my twists and braids super moisturized and I simply love the smell of Frank. I also make my own homemade spritz from water and aloe vera gel.

My favorite deep conditioner is hands down Hairveda SitriNillah Deep Conditioning Masque. It really penetrates my hair especially the hair in the back which is much more dense and prone to more tangles and knots.

None of these products contain silicones either, which cause a lot of buildup for me, followed by shampooing which makes my hair even more dry.

BGLH: How frequently do you moisturize (conditioner, deep conditioners, and daily applications…)?
Kcurly: I deep condition every one to two weeks, depending on how I’m wearing my hair. If I’m not consistently wearing a protective style, like during the warmer months, then I deep condition once a week. I moisturize daily if my hair feels is feeling dry and rough. If I’m doing a wash n go in the summer, I will co wash at least every other day. I always apply a leave in conditioner as well, no matter what the style.

The back of my hair, which consists of tight coils, require more products than the front, which ranges from s-curls to spirals. I also may moisturize the back some days while the front is still moisturized from last time.

BGLH: What moisturizing mistakes have you made in the past?
Kcurly: Thinking that I did not need to deep condition. Deep conditioning has made the biggest difference in my hair, hands down. Next would probably be ignoring protective styling, which for me really helps keep in the hair moisturized.

BGLH: And finally, how did you finally figure out what worked best for you? Take us along on your journey.
Kcurly: I found out what worked best for me when I stopped trying to just get curl definition and just worked on the overall health of my hair. I used a lot of products with silicones in them that promised to tame frizz, etc, but these silicones continued to buildup, which led to me using shampoo frequently, which lead to a dry, dry head of hair and me wondering what in the world was going on. Once I got rid of the cones and shampoo (except rarely when I need to clarify), and started doing more protective styling, my hair’s health really started shining through.

what i love about kcurly’s regimen:
can we say style icon? fabulous! in keeping with the top 11 reasons why natural women aren’t properly moisturized, kcurly addressed all topics on the list except for 9(dandruff) & 10(protein-moisture balance)! i would like to point out that if your hair is not porous or damaged, you may not need protein treatments. kcurly considers weekly/bi-weekly deep conditioning treatments vital to her lovely head of hair. moisturizing a head full of different textures is of great concern to many naturals. kcurly simply accesses her hair and adds more product on the hair that is coilier. this type of hair is often thirstier so it always benefits from extra hydration. she keeps away from silicones which block moisture from penetrating the hair shaft. kcurly alternates between liquid and creamy moisturizers depending on the style. she uses natural ingredients like aloe vera and shea butter. aloe vera is an excellent hydrator; shea butter protects against sun and wind and provides dry skin & hair with vitamins a, e & f, without clogging pores. she is loyal to haircare lines which also place an emphasis on healthy ingredients. and lastly, kcurly recognizes the importance of keeping the moisture in her hair by conditioner washing and using protective styling. keep up the great haircare kcurly! your hair’s health most certainly shines thru! BGLH approved!

~j~

***check out kcurly’s awesome blog, “newly natural” here.***

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BGLH: What is your hair type (kinky/curly/coily)?
LouLou: I’m a 4 A/B mix. It’s very coily, frizzy, and tangles easily.

BGLH: What products do you use to moisturize? Why?
LouLou:
Daily Moisture: I use a spray mix consisting of 1. distilled water, 2. aloe vera juice (or gel), 3. a dab of conditioner and 4. castor oil. You can make it as liquid-y or creamy as you want depending on the season or your hair’s needs. The conditioner can be anything from Whole Foods Conditioners, Aubrey Organics, Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp, Elucence MB, or Giovanni. I eyeball the measurements and make enough to last 4-5 days. I shake it up in an 8 oz. spray bottle and spritz. These ingredients last me months so it’s very cost effective. The mix is very natural, safe, and loaded with moisture. My coils instantly react to it.

Deep Conditioner: I shampoo (Elucence Moisture Balancing) and deep condition with heat once a week. I love Aubrey Organics Conditioners. I often mix in coconut cream concentrate, castor oil, coconut oil, or honey to increase the shine and humectant level. I balance out the moisture by using a mild protein conditioner like AO GPB or Island Natural Conditioner once a month. I also clarify once every 4-6 weeks.

BGLH: How frequently do you moisturize (conditioner, deep conditioners, and daily applications…)?
LouLou: I put some type of moisture in my hair everyday. This doesn’t mean my hair is damp or drenched but supple and moist. I probably don’t have to anymore but it’s now a habit.

BGLH: What moisturizing mistakes have you made in the past?
LouLou: I was fortunate to find out very early what my hair likes. I visited many Fotkis, blogs, and hair boards to get product suggestions and reviews. I look at all ingredient lists before I buy any product. I learned early that glycerin-heavy products, petroleum, mineral oil, shea butter (not mixed with anything), olive oil, and lanolin don’t work well with my hair. If I stick to this I’m usually all right. On a side note I lounge and sleep in a satin bonnet to prevent moisture loss and frizz from the couch and my cotton pillowcases.

BGLH: And finally, how did you finally figure out what worked best for you? Take us along on your journey.
LouLou: I became an instant product junkie when I found the hair boards (I have the product folder to prove it). I tried out many things but came back to certain products time and again. Once I started to understand my hair’s characteristics- kinky, coily, fine strands, inherently dry, and dense, I was able to search for products that addressed these issues. Elucence, AO, Giovanni, and certain oils I make up my core regimen. I even try out new products but do so with the knowledge of what usually works for me. Now, even when I venture to new products they generally perform well on my hair.

what i love about loulou‘s regimen:
check out the shine on loulou’s hair!! i love the fact that loulou pays close attention to the ingredients in her products. she reads labels carefully and avoids harmful ingredients (many on the natural girl’s black list). she mentions that she maintains her hair’s moisture-protein balance. she does this by deep conditioning once a week and using a protein conditioner once a month. this is essential in preventing breakage. loulou clarifies her hair every 4-6 weeks to prevent product buildup from coating the cuticle, making way for moisture to seep right in. she moisturizes her hair daily using a spritz, keeping it moist at all times so that it doesn’t dry out. her handy satin bonnet protects her strands from drying fabrics while keeping that moisture locked in. loulou even takes seasonal changes into account. we naturals may have to tweak our regimens based on the effects of weather/temperature. her product usage includes natural hair care lines and natural ingredients including coconut cream, coconut oil, honey and castor oil. she recognizes that some beneficial ingredients just don’t work for her, although they work well for others. she tailors and adjusts her hair care based on her hair’s individual needs.

loulou, you have this down to a science and it shows in your hair! your regimen addressed all but #9 (which isn’t an issue for you) on the top 11 reasons why natural women aren’t properly moisturized list! thank you for sharing your regimen with BGLH readers. congrats to you on being featured and on achieving beautiful healthy hair! BGLH approved!

stay tuned for the rest of the regimens!
~j~

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WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT… (cont’d)
HUMECTANTS: substances used to attract and bind water to the hair.

Vegetable Glycerin: a popular humectant derived from vegetable sources (avoid synthetic glycerin). Use it in combination with another conditioning agent if planning to use heat-styling methods. I personally avoid glycerin because in the winter time, the cold air sucks the moisture out of your hair and exacerbates the humidity in the summer. Also avoid it if your hair is chemically colored (especially red tones) because it may strip/grab unbound dye molecules.

Honey: a humectant composed of simple sugars and trace amounts of various minerals, vitamins, proteins, amino acids, and other nutrients. It adds moisture and shine. For best results, combine with oils or conditioner. Honeyquat is a quaternized conditioning agent derived from honey which has 10 times the moisturizing powers of glycerin.

Humectants Of Natural Origin You May Have Never Heard Of: Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Hyaluronic Acid, Inositol, Glycogen, and Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS).

Hydrolyzed Proteins: Elastin, Collagen, Silk and Keratin

HOW TO LOCK IN MOISTURE: TECHNIQUES / PRACTICES

Clarifying: This is an important underrated step that removes excess oils and product buildup from the hair. If you have buildup on your hair the moisturizer cannot get thru to reach the cuticle. You should clarify your hair every other month or 1x a month especially if you use heavy oils. This can be done thru a diluted 25-50% apple cider vinegar wash or half a teaspoon of baking soda mixed in with your conditioner.

Daily Spritz: Your spritz should contain goodies like: essential oils, nutrient-rich carrier oils and water/aloe vera. It will remain fresh in the refrigerator for a week. If kept longer invest in a commercial grade preservative. Spray it on your ends every night and if needed in the morning then seal with a heavy oil.

Sealing with Heavy Oils: This step is important because it seals the cuticle with the moisture technique you have used. Locking in moisture with a heavy nutrient-rich oil like castor (my favorite), wheat germ, un-petroleum, etc. can help prevent breakage.

Baggy Method: An effective technique especially in the wintertime. You can baggy the hair ends or the whole head. You can even baggy your box braids or cornrows. Apply moisturizer / conditioner to the hair and wrap ends with saran wrap or whole head with plastic cap. Then put on a hat, headwrap, put hair in a bun or attach a bun/piece to cover the ends. Watch for “soggy” hair – this can be a sign that your hair is too moist resulting in weak, fragile hair that leads to breakage.
***
more to come! thoughts?

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