Moisturizing
~by Jenteel, BGLH Resident Hair Expert
IT BEGINS ON THE INSIDE…
As far as hair health, I will begin with the internal – the most important. Yes, what you put into your body reflects on the outside; especially important for most of us concerned with the beauty aspects of hair, skin, and nails.
Water: The amount of water you consume actually varies by person. I don’t stick to the “8 glasses a day” rule because we are all different. You should drink a little less than half your body weight in ounces of water per day. If you exercise, you should add 16 oz to the total for every 45 minutes of strenuous activity. For every ounce of caffeinated beverage that you drink, you need to drink and additional 2 oz of water.
Fruits/ Vegetables: Try to consume fruits and veggies with a high water content; red-orange fruits and veggies, leafy greens, citrus & berries.
Vitamins/Minerals: Vitamin A, C, E, zinc, selenium, and omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3s are very important. For vegetarians who don’t eat fish/fish oils, try nuts/oils like macadamia, walnuts & almonds.
Useful Supplements: MSM, Spirulina, Silica & DHA.
WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT…
No-poo / Co-wash: This is a technique popularized by Lorraine Massey in her book, “Curly Girl – The Handbook: A Celebration of Curls: How to cut them, care for them, love them, and set them free”. The premise for this technique is that most shampoos contain harsh, drying sulfates that are extremely damaging for curly hair (ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.). They make curly hair frizzy and uncooperative. Using conditioner in place of shampoo will cleanse the hair just as effectively without stripping it of moisture. Gentle shampoos that contain mild cleansers (i.e. cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine) can be used occasionally.
Deep Conditioning Treatments: You can make these treatments yourself or purchase commercial conditioners that contain one of more of the following ingredients: honey, botanical extracts, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, sunflower oil etc. INGREDIENTS TO AVOID: mineral oil & petroleum which coats the hair and prevents moisture from getting in. A good conditioner should flatten the cuticles and fill in rough spots, thereby smoothing the hair surface. It should also provide good lubrication so that hair glides over each other avoiding snags and breakage. This is where slip becomes important. Slip describes how easy it is to get the comb thru the hair strands. Leave in a deep conditioner for 30 minutes to an hour with heat, longer without.
Oils: Coconut and olive oils are known to penetrate the hair shaft easily, but make sure to mix the oils with even a little bit of water to really penetrate the cuticle. Jojoba oil is similar to our own sebum so this works well on the scalp and as a sealant.
HUMECTANTS: substances used to attract and bind water to the hair.
Vegetable Glycerin: a popular humectant derived from vegetable sources (avoid synthetic glycerin). Use it in combination with another conditioning agent if planning to use heat-styling methods. I personally avoid glycerin because in the winter time, the cold air sucks the moisture out of your hair and exacerbates the humidity in the summer. Also avoid it if your hair is chemically colored (especially red tones) because it may strip/grab unbound dye molecules.
Honey: a humectant composed of simple sugars and trace amounts of various minerals, vitamins, proteins, amino acids, and other nutrients. It adds moisture and shine. For best results, combine with oils or conditioner. Honeyquat is a quaternized conditioning agent derived from honey which has 10 times the moisturizing powers of glycerin.
Humectants Of Natural Origin You May Have Never Heard Of: Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Hyaluronic Acid, Inositol, Glycogen, and Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS).
Hydrolyzed Proteins: Elastin, Collagen, Silk and Keratin
HOW TO LOCK IN MOISTURE: TECHNIQUES / PRACTICES
Clarifying: This is an important underrated step that removes excess oils and product buildup from the hair. If you have buildup on your hair the moisturizer cannot get thru to reach the cuticle. You should clarify your hair every other month or 1x a month especially if you use heavy oils. This can be done thru a diluted 25-50% apple cider vinegar wash or half a teaspoon of baking soda mixed in with your conditioner.
Daily Spritz: Your spritz should contain goodies like: essential oils, nutrient-rich carrier oils and water/aloe vera. It will remain fresh in the refrigerator for a week. If kept longer invest in a commercial grade preservative. Spray it on your ends every night and if needed in the morning then seal with a heavy oil.
Sealing with Heavy Oils: This step is important because it seals the cuticle with the moisture technique you have used. Locking in moisture with a heavy nutrient-rich oil like castor (my favorite), wheat germ, un-petroleum, etc. can help prevent breakage.
Baggy Method: An effective technique especially in the wintertime. You can baggy the hair ends or the whole head. You can even baggy your box braids or cornrows. Apply moisturizer / conditioner to the hair and wrap ends with saran wrap or whole head with plastic cap. Then put on a hat, headwrap, put hair in a bun or attach a bun/piece to cover the ends. Watch for “soggy” hair – this can be a sign that your hair is too moist resulting in weak, fragile hair that leads to breakage.
Protective Styling: PS styles include braids, twists, protective hair coverings (hair pieces and headwraps) and “tucked-under” styles. Make sure to take down the hair daily to spritz/moisturize and seal. These styles will protect your hair from “the elements” that deplete your hair of moisture.
Silicones: Products ending in the suffix -cone, -conol, or –xane. I DONT RECOMMEND silicones, but I mention them because silicones block out moisture and humidity. You can apply a silicone-based product after your moisturizer to lock in the moisture especially when heat styling. They prevent frizz but over time may actually cause frizz so use silicones sparingly and be sure to clarify after using them.
TOOLS TO PROMOTE MOISTURE
Satin Pillow Case/Scarf: You should all be familiar with this by now. At night you should protect your hair from the drying effects of polyester/cotton sheets and pillowcases, especially if you move around a lot like me. The satiny smooth material of the pillowcase/scarf will keep your style in place and keep dryness at bay. Don’t forget to line your hats and headwraps with this material or something similar.
Humidifier: If you live in a very cold/very hot dry climate or experience harsh temperatures, you may want to invest in a humidifier. This puts moisture back into the air. You can use it at night before going to bed. It is also good for your skin and prevents illness by keeping the mucosal lining of your nostrils lubricated to ward off germs.
Shower filter: Chlorine and calcium deposits from hard water can wreak havoc on hair (and skin) causing it to become dry, brittle and dull. A filter can keep these deposits from coating the hair. I purchased a filter from Home Depot for $20. Every 6 months, I purchase a replacement cartridge for only $10. It is so worth it! No more dry skin or hair in the winter!
THE TAKE HOME MESSAGE
If you follow these techniques, I promise you, you will notice a change in the strength, elasticity and softness of your hair. As stated in previous posts, in conjunction with these tips, maintain a proper moisture-protein balance in your hair. Be sure to avoid excessive heat styling practices like blowdrying, hot combing and flat ironing. These can damage the chair shaft causing dryness, knots, split ends and finally breakage. Another great resource on this topic is Chicoro’s fotki. She’s been featured on BGLH before. She has great diagrams of the cuticle and she provides a play by play on her moisturizing techniques.
Stay Warm & Happy Healthy New Hair!
~jenteel~
