Transitioning to natural hair
~by Jenteel, BGLH Resident Hair Expert
Q: What’s the most effective way to transition into natural hair?
How you decide to grow out your relaxer/texturizer is largely dictated by your lifestyle and/or hair texture. In regards to hair texture, if there is a significant texture difference between your new growth and processed ends, you may want to “big chop” or shorten your transition time. This includes texture differences as a result of heat damage, over-processing of chemicals including dyes, or thin relaxed ends vs. thick/coarse new growth. The reason why these are issues is because breakage may occur at the line of demarcation. This is the point where the relaxed hair and virgin hair meet.
The “Big Chop”
The “big chop” is a term used to describe the process of cutting off all of the relaxed hair to reveal a head full of natural unprocessed kinks/curls; as opposed to transitioning, which could be described as “waiting to get a significant amount of length” before cutting off relaxed ends, ultimately resulting in a less dramatic chop. Most naturals usually describe the desired transition-chop length as “enough hair to fit in a ponytail”. The big chop is simple because it is just that: either you, a stylist, or loved one cut off the relaxed ends. I highly recommend that you avoid a barber unless he/she uses scissors, because your ends will be “buzzed” and almost impossible to style. Barbers are also notorious for unflattering “boy cuts” in stark contrast to the cute slick styles that some fab naturals are seen sporting. Style options for a big chop include a “Caesar”: very low cut, a twa: teeny weeny afro, a part on the side, designs cut into the hair, curly/wavy twa / slicked down with gel.
Transitioning
If you decide to transition, I suggest you have a game plan. Will you transition alone or have a hair dresser’s assistance? What are your style options? How often will you trim?
I suggest protein treatments at least once every 6 weeks. This is to keep the hair strong at the line of demarcation to avoid breakage. An easy natural protein treatment can be made with eggs and mayonnaise. Another option is thru the use of a commercial product with light protein in the form of a reconstructor or a heavy protein. Keep in mind not everyone’s hair likes protein. You must keep a close eye on your hair and watch for breakage and maintain a proper protein-moisture balance. Also recommended is deep conditioning treatments for moisturizing to aid in detangling. A tell-tale sign of too much protein is dry, brittle hair resulting from formerly normal hair. Although rare, a sign of too much moisture is “soggy” hair. Styles that are useful in blending the two textures during transitioning include braid-outs, twist-outs, bantu knot-outs, and strawsets. At the end of your transition, when it is time for the final cut, be sure to have a clear level of communication with your stylist so that only relaxed ends are cut off. You may require an additional visit to completely remove residual relaxed ends.
Jenteel’s Journey
The first time I went natural, I transitioned because I was fearful of short hair (having had shoulder length or longer hair all of my life). When I transitioned, there were virtually no [internet] hair boards, but I still found the process very easy. I transitioned for the first six months off and on with professional braid extensions. During that time and thru the end of my transition, I styled my own hair without extensions. Those styles included slicked-back buns using gel, cornrows, flat twists, and twists with “ouchless” rubber bands at the ends. I even had my hair flat ironed (not hot-combed!) twice during the transition for a change of pace. I trimmed 1-2 inches off of my hair a month. I enjoyed my transition and was anxious for a full head of natural hair. During the process, I actually became less concerned with length and grew more curious of short hair. At the end of 10-11 months, I cut the rest of the relaxer out.
Your Journey is Unique…
Understand that whatever way you go natural this is a major change. How do you receive change in your life? Positively or negatively? Remember, this is your journey and your decision. I think how your “journey to natural” evolves is largely linked to your mindset, how you feel about your natural hair and natural hair in general. Love yourself, love your hair and best of luck!
~j~
