Ok, so as some of you who have been following the blog for a while know, I am transitioning and it hasn’t been the easiest process for me (http://bglhonline.com/2009/07/questions-from-a-newbie-the-transitioner-edition/). And I recently asked about wigs: http://bglhonline.com/2009/11/question-of-the-day-the-emergency-wig/…well, I broke down and got a sew-in weave. And it has been an interesting experience to say the least. I opted to get a long straight weave instead of one that is more like my natural texture in part, because I miss my straightened hair sometimes. Not enough to relax or use heat to achieve that effect anymore, but I was feeling a little nostalgic.

Pre-weave

Weave

Well, once I got the weave in, I realized that I completely miss my own hair. Even the fussing and frustration of it all. It was mine and that made it special. But interestingly enough, I’m finding that I’m being treated differently by almost everyone. I have been met with confusion from the people who know me well (i.e. Why did you get a weave??? You’re not a weave kinda girl. Your had your own hair anyway!!! Wait…that’s not your hair? No comment.), compliments from people who kinda know me (i.e. I love your new hairstyle! Your hair is getting so long! It’s so shiny!) and gushing from strangers (You look so pretty!!! You look like that one actress!)

Please forgive me if that was long winded I guess what I’m trying to get at is, I feel like me no matter what’s on my head, but this weave just makes me feel…well…different. And I’m being treated differently. So, ladies: Do you think of hair as an extension of yourself or do you view it more as an accessory…or a combo of both? Also, what impact (if any) do the comments of others have on how you feel about your own hair?

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And why should I?
If we’re trying to get to a ‘post-racial world’, why should I maintain a fierce commitment to my “race”, which some might call zenophobic?

This is a question I’ve been struggling with lately as more and more information comes to light about the inequalities in the beauty industry. Chris Rock uncovered it at length in his film “Good Hair”. Basically, the black hair care industry is not owned by blacks. It’s owned by whites and Asians.

The sell the products. They manufacture the products. The own the stores.

So the question is: Should I care?
I would like to feel that I am autonomous, that I make my decisions out of reason — not loyalty to race.
But then again, isn’t it reasonable for blacks to take back the beauty industry? If only to rid it of its inherently exploitive nature? But then, even if we ‘take back’ the beauty industry, who’s to say that it will cease to be exploitive?

So what do we do? Where do we go? What are your thoughts on this?

***
BGLH now has a forum! Check it out HERE.

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On going natural…
I went natural 22 days ago because I was tired of putting chemicals in my hair and I wanted to be free from keeping up appearances as Carnisha with the long hair.

A one-word description of her transformation…
Refreshing… Since I went natural I feel more comfortable in my own skin, because I am no longer hiding behind my hair!

***
BGLH now has a forum! Check it out HERE.

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I am from Nigeria. I am currently an undergraduate student at an Ivy League university.

On going natural…
I stopped relaxing my hair in May 2008. I transitioned using extensions (braids and weaves) until February 2009. I went to the barber’s to trim my relaxed ends off in February, but he went overboard and cut most of it off, leaving an inch. I was a little unhappy, but I knew my relaxed ends were unhealthy, so I took it in my stride.

I stopped relaxing my hair because I did not know how to take care of my relaxed hair. Before I came to America, I lived in Europe for 2 years. In this time, my hair became severely damaged from scalp burns, heat from flat irons and hairdryers, the cold weather, and the excessive grease I applied to my hair, thinking it would be protected from the cold this way. I decided to stop relaxing my hair because this system of ‘hair care’ was not working.

I wanted the freedom to be able to jump in the shower that my friend Julie had. Adopted by a white mother, her hair had never been straightened. It was full and beautiful. She could jump into the shower without a shower cap. She also did not spend money on extensions or relaxers, and was able to use the holidays where I sometimes stayed to get braids done to travel and explore Europe. I also envied the European girls who could swim and shower anytime they wanted. It was at that point that I realized that chemical straighteners were a choice, not a necessity. I realized that I was subjecting myself to self-imposed restrictions that made my life as a student unnecessarily difficult.

A one-word description of the transformation…
Liberating… My hair is stronger and healthier than ever- it is growing at its normal rate, sheds hair daily at its normal rate and also does not break.

A guy once told me, ‘Why don’t you relax your hair and bleach it blonde like Amber Rose?’
Another guy pointed to my Jamaican friend’s curly hair and said, ‘I wish your hair was like this.’
My dad said, ‘The weave looks better than your real hair.’
My aunty said, ‘Why don’t you texturize it so it can be nice and curly, so that you can comb it.’
My mom said, ‘I still look at you everyday and cannot believe this is my daughter.’
My dentist said, ‘Why don’t you cut it short so it can be neat?’

Although my hair is healthier and thicker than most people I know, it is not straight, and so I still receive comments like this quite often, especially when I am in Nigeria. When I made the decision to stop perming my hair, I held the naïve assumption that it would not be questioned. I didn’t know that most black people (Nigerians, Caribbean, Africans and Black Americans) would think I was either highly religious, ugly, a musician or model, lower class or ‘Rasta’ (Rastafarian). As I am now aware of these stereotypes, I do not hold grudges against these people, I only wish that natural hair would become equal and ‘normal’ to the way relaxed hair is viewed within the black community. How are we going to do this? I don’t know, but I hope I inspire people every time they see me looking fly, and by my ‘hairstory’ published here today, just as BGLH inspires me.

***
BGLH now has a forum! Check it out HERE.

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I am from Mobile, Alabama, currently I am a student at Auburn University. My major is apparel merchandising and design production, I plan on becoming a retail buyer/fashion journalist.

On going natural…
I got my last perm two weeks before my graduation in May 2008. I big chopped November 25, 2008 so my nappiversary is just around the corner. I had healthy hair with the perm, but I always wanted to know what my “real” hair looked like.

This might seem strange to some, but I have very few pictures of my hair in its natural state before I started getting relaxers. My mom did a quick comb and rinse of a baby perm when I was three just to loosen my texture a little bit, and I’m assuming when I got a little older she started doing the complete process.

Her reason was that she didn’t know how to manage my natural hair and my grandmother didn’t want to press my hair every two weeks like it needed to be. I always loved locs and wanted them at a young age but my mom said when I turned 18 I could do whatever I wanted with my hair. So I did and I’m never going back, my naps are way more fun

A one-word description of her transformation…
Invigorating… No one can tell me that I’m not beautiful now that I can show them the real me as God intended it to be.

***
BGLH now has a forum! Check it out HERE.

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Janada relaxed on her wedding day

Byron Bay, Australia

Where are you from?
J: I am originally from Canada. But we now call The Gold Coast in Australia my home away from home. I am completing my masters degree and my husband is doing his law degree. We had heard about the positive opportunities for graduate study in Australia and we decided to jump on board and apply to study ‘down under’.

Tell us about Australia.
J: Many times I wake up in the morning, take a glance out my window, and I can see green mountains to the West, and the Gold Coast shore line to the East. The Gold Coast is absolutely gorgeous. Great beaches, rainforests, shopping and weather.

E.g. “im hungry as, lets go to Macca’s and get brekkie.
(I’m so hungry, lets go to McDonalds and get breakfast)

I’m not a very good surfer, but I really like boogie boarding. So that’s my new beach hobby.

What is the natural hair culture like in Australia?
J: It’s as sparse as the number of black people in Australia. There are not so many black people here on the coast, so if you can find some that knows how to do black hair, you keep them close and at arms reach.

There are a few black hairdressers but having your hair braided will cost hundreds of dollars. The cost of maintaining relaxed hair was the big push that made be take the steps to going natural. I have seen some locals (Samoan, Fijian, Melanesian, aboriginal people) with curlier natural hair, but over all the natural hair scene for black people is very small. But I get compliments on my hair at least once a week, which makes me feel good.

What would you like to see in your country in terms of natural hair?
J: I would like to see more black hair care products in regular drug stores. But honestly, I don’t think that will happen, because of the small black population. This situation doesn’t really bother me, because everything I use on my hair comes from the organic store; coconut oil and conditioner.

Do you prefer natural hair to relaxed?
J: 200% I prefer my hair natural. I like being able to go swimming, get sweaty and travel with out having to lug my flat iron, blow dryer, serum, heat protectant spray, clips, etc… My husband is much happier with my natural hair too. He was my biggest supporter for going and STAYING natural. He loves my non-relaxed hair so much more, and doesn’t miss we whining about breakage and relaxer damage.

***
BGLH now has a forum! Check it out HERE.

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I put the braids back in for my next journey to Europe which would allow me some versatility and then see what was happening in about 6 months. So I’ve been here in Berlin for exactly 3 months now and just couldn’t stand it any longer. I felt like my hair was still suffering in the braids because it wasn’t being washed adequately or deep conditioned ever ( because the micros would’ve come out). So after visiting your website several times, I was inspired to began the labor of love that so many smart and beautiful women of color have already embarked upon. I took all the micros out and looked at myself in the mirror, a bit uncomfortable with what I saw but decided I would deal with and love me (regardless of what my hair was doing..lol).

Are there any tips you would recommend as far as a daily night time routine? I just have no clue what to do with my hair at night..A good friend of mine braids it every night and then takes the braids out in the morning for curly fullness but I didn’t know if that’s what most natural girls do.

J’s response:
Hi Chandra! Thank you for following BGLH. I’m glad you’ve been inspired to stick with the decision to go natural! I am honored to be 1/3 of this movement that is BGLH! How cool that you moved to Germany to make your dreams come true! All the best to you!

Now to your question! Most of you already know I’m a proponent of low manipulation so I don’t braid or twist my hair every night. I try to do protective styles that last throughout the week refreshing at night only if necessary. Here’s what I do before bed:

1) spritz my ends and scalp (a nice scalp massage on occasion)
2) add moisturizer to ends (refresh braids/twists if necessary)
3) seal ends with castor oil
4) put on my satin cap then it’s beddie-bye time!

I like to call my nightly ritual “SMSP“: Spritz Moisturize Seal Protect!
(you like that right-lol)

Spritz
The spritz is important because it hydrates the hair. For this I like to use floral waters, chamomile or sandalwood. I use floral waters so I don’t have to worry about contaminants and chlorine in tap water (you can use filtered water if you wish). I keep the floral waters refrigerated and add to a spray bottle as needed. Besides smelling wonderful, my scalp feels so refreshed afterward! It’s my daily aromatherapy Sometimes I mix the waters with panthenol (an idea suggested by Chicoro). If my hair is craving protein, I use my Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave-In Conditioner. You can use protein to help revitalize the hair, but unfortunately damaged hair must eventually be cut out. Click here for some ideas for a daily spritz ideas previously featured on BGLH!

Moisturize
Next is the moisturizer. I like to use a creamy water-based moisturizer (dr. bronner’s magic organic lotion). I love how it seeps into my thick hair. It also softens the hair and makes it easier to detangle. When refreshing twists or braids, you can use a wide-tooth comb or detangle with your fingers.

Seal
For the sealant, your options aren’t limited to just castor oil. Many naturals love coconut oil or hair butters like shea for sealing, especially for the shine that they impart not to mention the nutrient content.

Protect
Pin the hair up and sleep on a satin pillowcase or use a satin cap.

As you can see, my nightly routine is really simple making it easy to follow. Thanks for your submission Chandra! I thought your “before and after” pictures were especially great in light of the recent “then and now” posts (one of my favorite here at BGLH by the way – great submissions ladies!). Cute cute cute!

chandra then

chandra now!
So now it’s your turn! Natural ladies give up the goods!
What’s your nightly regimen?
~j~

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Back in my straight-hair days, bangs were my trademark. I was all about the sheeny (though ever-thinning) side-swoop. It was deep to me. Deep enough that I co-signed on this black and white, looking-off-into-the-distance shot taken of me in college, featuring my sheeny bangs.

But these days, making “bangs” mainly consists of me laying my hand down flat at the front of my head and forcing the hair down. I’ve had mixed success with keeping it down using headbands and such.

I would love to occassionally rock the hair-in-face look. So tell me ladies, how do you do your black girl bang? How do you get the hair in front to stay down and look cute? Have you even been able to do them since you went natural? Please share.

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Where are you from and what do you do?
N: I’m from Baltimore…and I’m in transition. I’ll be a college student (somewhere, God willing) in the spring. But right now I work in a high school as a Project Intern for the Youth Development Unit.

When did you go natural? Why?
N: I’m natural by default. =) I had a relaxer once when I was like seven. And it took my hair out….never again.
My mom is natural so it was something that I knew I would probably follow.

My sister, my aunt and my cousin all began to lock and their hair was growing! My hair was short, in fact when I was really young I didn’t even have hair..lol I remember the day I decided to lock my mom kept telling me how I was gonna watch my sister’s hair grow and be mad, and that day I was supposed to get my hair done, which didn’t happen. So i just declared, I’m gonna lock my hair. And that was the summer before sixth grade.

You’re 17 and you’ve had locks for a long time now. How have people around you reacted to your hair?
N: In middle school, people thought I was Jamaican..lol But my friends love it. People tell me how cute and neat they are. It’s funny, cause people randomly tell me when they see my hair, “I want locks,” or “I’m tryna lock my hair”. So..yeah. People are pretty in love with my locks. Lol.

What do you use in your hair?
N: To wash it I use a shampoo bar from a company called Wonderful Oils of the World. It has Tea Tree Oil, Thyme and Rosemary or I use Nadina’s Shea Butter Shampoo and Conditioner. To lock I just use pure shea butter and I occasionally oil it with Sunflower and Olive Oil.

What style do you love to rock?
N: Umm..since it’s been cut just straight, showing of my cut. I’m soo happy with it!

But I used to love to braid my hair, then take it out so it would be crinkly. That was two styles in one. And really convenient. I could swim in the braids and when i took them out, they’d be crinkly.

Why do you prefer natural hair to relaxed hair?
N: I really love the versatility of being natural, because you can still do a weave or press and still have your natural texture. When you perm, you lose that…and it takes a minute to get it back. And I never wanna lose my natural texture.

For more from Nia check out her blog.

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A healthy scalp is ultimately responsible for healthy hair (and a healthy body before that, but that, is another post, beloved readers). This is one oil, second and third only to Coconut and Olive oil in my oil roster, that despite its less than cute facade has a rather sexy history. Check the links referenced below or enjoy my paraphrase below.

Nahuatl is the language responsible for the word “ahuatl”, the avocado’s first moniker and it roughly means…erhm…”testicle”. It was seen as a fertility fruit in some indigenous South American societies . Let me paint the picture in as modest strokes as I can: If you had some of these in your basket you were more Pussycat Doll than Nun!

When the Spaniards met these lovely people (before destroying their culture and stealing their land, sigh, colonialism at its best 9.9), ahuatl became “aguacate”. Much easier to say, no? At least, after seven-plus-years of Spanish I can say it is.

When Americans blundered into this healthy-hair wonder, “aguacate” became mangled into “avocado”. Maybe it’s from having studied Spanish so long…but how on earth do you hear “AH-VO-CAH-DOE” in “AH-GWA-CAH-TAY”? I digress.

Why is this so fantastic for your scalp? A quick Google search will give you the dish, but I’ll give you some tidbits here.

As previously mentioned it sinks into the skin. This oil is HEAVY, HEAVY, HEAVY. A little dab will do you. Which is good, as it tends to be one of the pricier oils in large amounts.
It’s also a great source of Vitamin A, K, B1, E and B2 and D.

Why is that so fantastic?

Vitamin A, AKA, retinol (yes, the stuff that preserves your cuteness) is needed to help you eyes adjust to seeing in low-light situations and keeps your skin and other tissues moist (and hopefully wrinkle-free).

Vitamin K helps your kidneys do their various tasks and aids in blood clotting (a lack of this can show in dark circles, but these kind tend to be genetic, I speak from experience).

Vitamin B1, good old “thiamin” is necessary for energy conversion and aids in keeping your body’s systems running at top capacity.

Vitamin B2, which I think has a cute name: “riboflavin”, is vital for producing those oh-so-necessary red blood cells and aids in having healthy vision and radiant skin.

Vitamin D, the “sun vitamin” (another cheerful name ^_^) helps to facilitate the absorbtion of calcium.

Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant.

It also has lecithin. Lecithin in the body improves mood and healthy circulation (also important for hair growth).

It contains potassium. This is vital for maintaining the body’s water balance (which you should drink plenty of daily for your health and hair).

It also contains amino acids. Amino acids act as the building blocks for many of the body’s tissues and…HAIR.

Avocado oil has sterols. Plant sterols have been touted by the FDA for lowering cholesterol. This lovely (on the inside) fruit even has pantothenic acid and other essential fatty acids.

How pleasantly ironic such an ugly fruit packs a pretty punch, no? Having typed all of that, the best way to reap these benefits is to EAT them. Still, applying avocado oil topically is not without merit.

You can rub this on your skin after a shower, add it to a warm bath, use it to “seal” (more accurately, retard the evaporation of moisture) your ends, oil your scalp, or add it in small to moderate amounts to your usual deep conditioner. It can also be whipped into your curly pudding mixes. Yum. ^_^

I personally don’t apply it to the length of my hair as it is heavy and my hair hates direct oil usage to begin with. If I apply it straight it’s scalp and ends only. Again, that is because of MY hair’s preference. Please fulfill YOUR hair’s particular desires, beloved readers.

Ladies with a dry scalp may find this soothes many an issue.

I hope you give avocado oil a try. Its a great addition to my regimen when I want a break from my usual olive oil and coconut oil mix in my deep conditioners.

Also, beloved readers, just between me and you…if you slather your scalp and hair in this, sleep in it over night and wash lightly with a gentle shampoo in the morning…it’s like Christmas, New Year’s and your Birthday -on your head. Sans the crazy-with-a-capital-C, police sirens and party clean-up. ^_^

PET LOVERS! THIS COULD POTENTIALLY KILL YOUR BELOVED PETS! PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not let them lick, ingest or even sniff this in its oil form or in its original solid/fruit form.

Vitamin and nutrient info: HealthClininc.Com, Colorado University and Dr.David Williams (love this man!), jacn.org; Avocado History: avocado.org

Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/

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